City planning is my training. We plan, organise and arrange things spatially in a city. And mostly, we do it in a neat and tidy fashion.

But the City of Valparaiso – arranges itself! And it’s not neat and tidy. And I LOVE it. It’s my guilty pleasure!

The city falls from steep slopes in a sweeping circle. Into the Pacific Ocean! Everything hangs on precariously. Houses cling onto their old foundations. Cars wheel spin round razor sharp bends. People pay R2 to ride funiculars. Rather than crawl up pavements! Grubby and grand buildings stand side by side. Ramshackle homes face remodelled homes.

It’s chaotic, but it works. It’s pockmarked, but it’s artful. Residents use it thoroughly. Claim it. Own it.

I don’t mean to romanticise Valparaiso. Or to suggest it’s better. No! Screeching cars distress, failing infrastructure upsets, crumbling buildings scare.

But I do feel very alive …. as I ride on the back of Harry’s bike.

Harry revs and brakes. He weaves in and out, twists and turns. And I claw on with my knees to take these …

 

This is Valparaiso, at night, from our window.

And then again the next morning.

And from a little further away. See Valparaiso climb up those slopes.

Here is a map. Check out those squiggly roads at the top and sides.

And that is why 30 funiculars were originally built in this hilly port city. This is a funicular station.

Sixteen (16) funiculars still remain.

And here we have an overhead electric tram dropping folk off at a funicular station.

The equivalent of R2 will get you up this slope!

We go up steep roads like this, by bike.

Up and up, many times.

To see jaw dropping views like these, many times.

And down …

…. and down, many times.

We see many colonial-era structures built in the late 19th century like this ‘mercado’ (market).

Some have been renovated nicely.

… so why not hold a Rock Concert right in front of the City Hall.

Some beautifully renovated churches too like this.

… and this.

But the backdrop is almost always a mishmash of …

… old and new …

…. and new and old ….

Here is a beautiful home, nestled in.

And here is a lovely cluster of remodelled homes.

But it is the MURALS that take CENTRESTAGE in VALPARAISO, we think.

 

 

 

 

 

And here, a real “Cat on a Hot Tin Roof!”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is impossible to stop taking photos.

And Valparaiso is alive with activity too. Markets and bus stops …

… and bus stops and a pedlar.

Young students.

Shoppers.

An exhausted chef.

A sassy singer.

Roadside repairs.

A crooner!

Lots and lots of Portenos and Portenas, that is what men and women from Valparaiso are called.

If only she could tell Harry what she’s thinking ….

And fancy only 3 km from all this busy-ness …

…. is tranquility ….

… and the city of ‘Vina del Mar’ (Vineyard of the Sea). For the wealthy and holiday-makers from Santiago.