Deep in the Pamir Mountain range lies the town of Murghab, a harsh frontier type town in an unforgiving environment. A 19th century military outpost, Murghab is over 3,500 meters above sea level, making this town the highest in the entire ex-Soviet Union. It is part of our route which we cannot avoid as it is the only passage through this region.
In a strange twist of fate Josephine’s (my bike) problems , and the resulting delays, have favoured us. We arrive at Murghab to find that a horse festival is about to happen the next day. A weekend in a town that might as well be on the moon is as good a way as any to celebrate the resistance, endurance and sobriety of the Kyrgyz horse.
For the last 3000 years Kyrgyz nomads have bred a very special horse to adapt to this harsh environment.
And the festival is a celebration of this remarkable and hardy animal.
It is important to take a moment to celebrate the Kyrgyz horse. All of these games were played on an ever diminishing number of horses. Difficult winters and an encroachment of 20th century “values” are depleting not only a cultural inheritance but also a genetic pool.
The horses showed extraordinary grace and aptitude, being paraded by children at one minute, at a full gallop the next, and being wrestled on after that.
Beneath all of the joy that the day brought, there was some sadness:The national pastime couldn’t be played because there were too few horses. Ulak Tartish or buzkashi as it is more commonly known as, is a cross between polo and basketball, where two teams compete to put a decapitated goat carcass into a goal on either side of a 400 meter long field.
The absence of the game was missed but by no means detracted from a very memorable day for Linda and I.
Here are a few pictures:

And wait patiently, including the local police chief. Woman cover their faces for protection from the harsh enviroment.

The first contest with the objective of picking up as many of the red pieces of cloth as possible. All this while at full gallop!

Under the watchful eye of a referee. Not galloping when trying to pick up a red cloth disqualifies you.

The next contest is catch the bride. She is given a head start. If he cathches her then apparently he keeps her
Lovely!
What beautiful animals!! Great seeing the people’s faces and their clothing in your photo’s! What barren land – amazing how people survive! Does the rider get the women (bride) or the horse?? Enjoy the ride!
What good timing that you were able to see this special local festival. You may well have been glad to miss the ‘decapitated goat carcass’in spite of it being part of the national pastime!!
Reminds me of your horse scuptures in your house. Looks like great exitement. Cheers, Nods’s
Your updates are too wonderful for words – it’s like waiting for the next episode in a thriller series.
I strongly urge you to consider writing a book on your travels – with what you have experienced,coupled to your easy to read and enjoyable style of writing – it will be a best seller.
Travel safely.
The joy of being at the place at the right time. once again an amazing reflection of a world we don’t know.
Amazing that you managed to see all this! What a barren landscape and what a lot of dust. Magnificent horses and spectators and dignatories all in real technicolour!
How clean and neat their flag looks
Hey Linda, I like your cap. Wonder when and where you got it???
Nice to see, travel safely!
Nice pics. Harry
Great & Wonderful!!
A new slant on horses ———–we thought this only happened in Turkish Delight adverts !! Why have we never heard of this before ? ! Great experiences———–memories are made of this ! Take care !
Love as aye