In Port Elizabeth Harry prepares our bikes for shipment. Side by side, stand Harry’s bike “Deep Throat” and my bike “Linda Lovelace” – two 650cc on one GS1200 pallet! Every drop of oil and petrol has been drained, the front tyres are off and the handlebars are turned down.

In Port Elizabeth Harry prepares our bikes for shipment. Harry’s bike ‘Deep Throat” and my bike “Linda Lovelace” stand side by side  – two 650cc on one GS1200 pallet! Every drop of oil and petrol has been drained, the front tyres are off and the handlebars are turned down. They are almost ready to take New Delhi by storm!

 

All wrapped up! Thanks for the help Matthew, Dale, Thando, Siya & Sibu.

All wrapped up! Thanks for the help Matthew, Dale, Thando, Siya & Sibu.

 

Up, up, up and away with a forklift!

Up, up, up and away with a forklift!

 

The next morning Harry takes the bikes to the airport.

The next morning Harry takes the bikes to the airport.

 

In New Delhi, we need to find good quality oil for our bikes. We spend a day in and out of garages and bike shops …. without success. Eventually we stumble upon the Krishna Motor Garage. It’s a family business that’s been operating since 1938. They arrange, after many phone calls, for just the oil we need …. and brake fluid … and the super duper, high and low tone Delhi-proof hooters. Here we stand, gratefully, with Gyan and Aseem. Great guys!

In New Delhi, we need to find good quality oil for our bikes. We spend a day in and out of garages and bike shops …. without success. Eventually we stumble upon the Krishna Motor Garage. It’s a family business that’s been operating since 1938. They arrange, after many phone calls, for just the oil we need …. and brake fluid … and the super duper, high and low tone Delhi-proof hooters. Here we stand, gratefully, with Gyan and Aseem. Great guys!

 

We also need to take fuel with us to the Delhi Airport …. how else will we ride our bikes off into the sunset? No garage will fill our fuel cell …. except here … we fill up on the sly behind the seat of a taxi.

We also need to take fuel with us to the Delhi Airport …. how else will we ride our bikes off into the sunset? No garage will fill our fuel cell …. except here … we fill up on the sly behind the seat of a taxi.

 

With oil and petrol in hand, we head off to the ‘News Customs Office’ (one shudders to think what the Old Customs House looked like) where our ‘Clearing Agent’ tells us our bikes are ready for collection. We sit in the Office and Harry takes these photos behind the folds of his jeans.

With oil and petrol in hand, we head off to the ‘News Customs Office’ (one shudders to think what the Old Customs House looked like) where our ‘Clearing Agent’ tells us our bikes are ready for collection. We sit in the Office and Harry takes these photos behind the folds of his jeans.

 

Yes, we witness ‘much to do about nothing’ for almost 4 hours. But amidst, so much friendliness, and a stream of tea, coffee, lunch and then juice. Is there a dual system here; files upon files of paperwork and a rather dusty computer? See the years of carbon paper build-up on the floor at the bottom left hand corner of the photo. Problem! Our Carnet (passports for bikes) have been issued incorrectly by the AA of SA – they have inserted an extra digit in the frame number of my bike. We offer the bikes registration papers and ….

Yes, we witness ‘much to do about nothing’ for almost 4 hours. But amidst, so much friendliness, and a stream of tea, coffee, lunch and then juice. Is there a dual system here; files upon files of paperwork and a rather dusty computer? See the years of carbon paper build-up on the floor at the bottom left hand corner of the photo. AND THEN OH NO A PROBLEM! Our Carnet (passports for bikes) have been issued incorrectly by the AA of SA – they have inserted an extra digit in the frame number of ‘Linda Lovelace’. We offer the bikes registration papers and ….

 

…. wait anxiously outside …. alongside a lot of ‘other’ impounded vehicles!

…. and we wait anxiously outside …. alongside a lot of ‘other’ impounded vehicles!

 

And I test out my first squat.

And I test out my first squat.

 

Things speed up in the Office and finally at 16h30 (at Customs closing time) our bikes are released. We are led outside ….

Then things speed up in the Office and finally at 16h30 (at Customs closing time) our bikes are released. We are led outside ….

 

Yes, outside into the street, to a truck with our bikes inside … without a forklift in sight!

Yes, outside into the street, to a truck with our bikes inside … without a forklift in sight!

 

Will our bikes be in tact?

Will our bikes be in tact?

 

Phew! YES, but what now?

Phew! YES, but what now?

 

Harry climbs in and our Clearing Agent (the gent in the black trousers and white shirt) calls on a group of guys to help.

Harry climbs in and our Clearing Agent (the gent in the black trousers and white shirt) calls on a group of guys to help.

 

First to emerge is ‘Deep Throat’.

First to emerge is ‘Deep Throat’.

 

...

 

...

 

At last, ‘Deep Throat’ on the centre stand. See the front tyre and all our tools and bits and pieces off to the left.

At last, ‘Deep Throat’ on the centre stand. See the front tyre and all our tools and bits and pieces off to the left.

 

Next ‘Linda Lovelace’ appears!

Next ‘Linda Lovelace’ appears!

 

...

 

There is a lot of re-assembly to be done (front tyres, belly pans, crash-bars, spot-lights, handlebars, mirrors, screens). And, of course, we pour in that hard-won oil and petrol ... in full view of a ring of spectators. My bike’s front brakes don’t work, but it’s so late, Harry decides to ride it to our hotel using only the back-brakes … in Delhi traffic!

There is a lot of re-assembly to be done (front tyres, belly pans, crash-bars, spot-lights, handlebars, mirrors, screens). And, of course, we pour in that hard-won oil and petrol … in full view of a ring of spectators. My bike’s front brakes don’t work, but it’s so late, Harry decides to ride it to our hotel using only the back-brakes … in Delhi traffic!

 

Done …. in the dark! We’ve spent 3 very dear hours with this group of guys … a ready, careful help backed up by endless sweet tea.

Done …. in the dark! We’ve spent 3 very dear hours with this group of guys … ready, careful hands backed up by endless sweet tea.

 

We arrive back at the hotel just after 21h00. Our ‘private parking” turns out to be on the pavement. Aren’t our bikes beautiful!

We arrive back at the hotel just after 21h00. Our ‘private parking” turns out to be on the pavement. Aren’t our bikes beautiful!

 

The next morning we set about the last of the re-assembly work on the pavement. What a spectacle.

The next morning we set about the last of the re-assembly work on the pavement. What a spectacle.

 

Harry was worried all night about the brakes possibly having air in the ABS system (he didn’t bring the GS911 which would have cycled the ABS pump). Luckily the front brake only requires a simple bleeding exercise.

Harry was worried all night about the brakes possibly having air in the ABS system (he didn’t bring the GS911 which would have cycled the ABS pump). Luckily the front brake only requires a simple bleeding exercise.

 

I’m making damn sure nobody parks on Harry!

I’m making damn sure nobody parks on Harry!

 

Our bikes are very different to standard fare in India. Countless guys jump on and off our bikes for photos and ask ‘how much, in dollar?’

Our bikes are very different to standard fare in India. Countless guys jump on and off our bikes for photos and ask ‘how much, in dollar?’

 

‘Deep Throat’ and ‘Linda Lovelace’ adored in New Delhi!

‘Deep Throat’ and ‘Linda Lovelace’ adored in New Delhi!