
In Port Elizabeth Harry prepares our bikes for shipment. Harry’s bike ‘Deep Throat” and my bike “Linda Lovelace” stand side by side – two 650cc on one GS1200 pallet! Every drop of oil and petrol has been drained, the front tyres are off and the handlebars are turned down. They are almost ready to take New Delhi by storm!

In New Delhi, we need to find good quality oil for our bikes. We spend a day in and out of garages and bike shops …. without success. Eventually we stumble upon the Krishna Motor Garage. It’s a family business that’s been operating since 1938. They arrange, after many phone calls, for just the oil we need …. and brake fluid … and the super duper, high and low tone Delhi-proof hooters. Here we stand, gratefully, with Gyan and Aseem. Great guys!

We also need to take fuel with us to the Delhi Airport …. how else will we ride our bikes off into the sunset? No garage will fill our fuel cell …. except here … we fill up on the sly behind the seat of a taxi.

With oil and petrol in hand, we head off to the ‘News Customs Office’ (one shudders to think what the Old Customs House looked like) where our ‘Clearing Agent’ tells us our bikes are ready for collection. We sit in the Office and Harry takes these photos behind the folds of his jeans.

Yes, we witness ‘much to do about nothing’ for almost 4 hours. But amidst, so much friendliness, and a stream of tea, coffee, lunch and then juice. Is there a dual system here; files upon files of paperwork and a rather dusty computer? See the years of carbon paper build-up on the floor at the bottom left hand corner of the photo. AND THEN OH NO A PROBLEM! Our Carnet (passports for bikes) have been issued incorrectly by the AA of SA – they have inserted an extra digit in the frame number of ‘Linda Lovelace’. We offer the bikes registration papers and ….

Then things speed up in the Office and finally at 16h30 (at Customs closing time) our bikes are released. We are led outside ….

Harry climbs in and our Clearing Agent (the gent in the black trousers and white shirt) calls on a group of guys to help.

At last, ‘Deep Throat’ on the centre stand. See the front tyre and all our tools and bits and pieces off to the left.

There is a lot of re-assembly to be done (front tyres, belly pans, crash-bars, spot-lights, handlebars, mirrors, screens). And, of course, we pour in that hard-won oil and petrol … in full view of a ring of spectators. My bike’s front brakes don’t work, but it’s so late, Harry decides to ride it to our hotel using only the back-brakes … in Delhi traffic!

Done …. in the dark! We’ve spent 3 very dear hours with this group of guys … ready, careful hands backed up by endless sweet tea.

We arrive back at the hotel just after 21h00. Our ‘private parking” turns out to be on the pavement. Aren’t our bikes beautiful!

Harry was worried all night about the brakes possibly having air in the ABS system (he didn’t bring the GS911 which would have cycled the ABS pump). Luckily the front brake only requires a simple bleeding exercise.

Our bikes are very different to standard fare in India. Countless guys jump on and off our bikes for photos and ask ‘how much, in dollar?’
What fun! You have a way of making endless boring hours in a dusty office sound romantic and a “must do in Dehli”! xxx
Well done and ready to go. I like the names :-) . for short, I will refer to you both as Deep-lace
I would love to follow your adventure
Cool photos but the toilet does look a bit inconvenient
Fantabulous!
Admire your sence of adventure and are looking forward to travel with you. May all the gods look after you!
What a lovely and dramatic start to the journey!
i agree with Jan and Gails 2nd comment. Amazing vasbyt you guys have. Best wishes for a lot of fun on your adventure. Love the papsak for fuel. Wonder if Crackling rosie would fit in there???
crackling goes well just about anywhere in anything!
It was all good news; through Dehli on one brake, friendly, tho’ labourious officials, and numerous helpful and interested Indian people. Remember your motor cycle friend Ted Simon … in 1973 who spent some time as a guest of the Brazilian Security Police! He wrote a book at that time Juipeters Travels and 30 years later. – Jan
Patience if saints and strength of lions. You got it right and had amazing helpers. The pictures tell the tale so graphically I felt I was there. I agree with Lucy about the LOO! much love Gail
Enjoy, wish we were with you!!!
never too late! Hope you and the commoner are well!!!!
Dear Harry ( Deep Throat ) and Linnie ( Lovelace) – Wendy and technology!!!!! It appears my first response did not send as i did not do the math – you know i am History teacher!!!!! So apology if you get it twice. Shoo my throat closes and stomach in a knot just reading the experience!!! Judging by the outside of the hotel – more my scene!!!!!!!
But as with the past two adventures – thank you for taking me places and sharing experiences with me that my wonderlust will not venture into. Deep- throat hope you had a WOW birthday.
As always take care and be safe.
Wintie
Ready to go!
I have slept in this Hotel Ajanta too, 5 years ago. Great Roof Terrace!
Take care and enjoy Incredible India.
Siem – the Ajanta! An uncanny coincidence! We often think and speak of your RagBag venture. Love to you & Hedy.
Glad I don’t have to use those toilets!!
Hope you are having a fun time!
Hope Linda Lovelace and deep throat don’t get too tired. They are beautiful.
Great parking spaces.
Lots of love
Lucy
Certainly not a boring start to the trip. Great story so far. All the best to you two.
Been thinking about you guys, at laast good to hear and see where you have been.I like to see the scooter number plate EC which is going to remind you where you are coming from.Gudluck&God covers you!!!!
Interesting start on new ground. Now the fun starts on the ride. Geniet.
What a catalogue of things to go through and—– of course—-you 2 DID go through it all ! Well done and well done to the many helpers ! Can’t wait for more stories—–please take care. Love as aye
Tee hee – Matthew laughed for ten minutes possibly at the title.
You guys Rock.