‘A Missing Tribe on a Shrinking Island in a Forgotten State.’
A Puzzle of A Title. A little like the ‘Smile without the Cat’ in Alice in Wonderland. Isn’t it lovely? Isn’t the Smile almost lovelier without the Cat?
Let’s break the puzzle into its pieces! The Forgotten State; A tribe called Missing and a Shrinking Island. Ai – you see – the smile disappears when the cat appears!
ThE FoRgOtTeN StAtE
ThE MiSsInG TrIbE
ThE ShRiNkInG IsLaNd
Here goes …
ThE FoRgOtTeN StAtE
India’s 18th state hides in the extreme east. It’s a blob on its own with a skinny land link to India. Its neighbours are Bhutan, Chinese Tibet, Myanmar and Bangladesh. And it is a collision zone of tribes from all these places. They call it the North East State of India. We ride through its regions of Assam, Nagaland and Manipur. And we see it is ‘forgot’! By India! By the world!
Government apathy is clear in bad roads and poor infrastructure. Political disquiet expresses in strikes, roadblocks, permits and a heavy defence presence. We read, some want independence from India, others autonomy, of turf wars between clans. There is a 12 hour shutdown of shops, schools, banks and public transport while we are here. Everybody asks; what has government done in 50 years!
ThE MiSsInG TrIbE
The Missing Tribe is one of seventeen tribes in the Assam region. There’s also the Bodo, the Kachari, the Karbi, the Mishimi, the Adivasi, the Rabha …
The Missing tribe treks down from the Himalaya 700 years ago. They search for less hostile land, more fertile land. They follow one of Asia’s four greatest rivers, the Brahmaputra. But the best land is already taken. Our late-comers keep ‘missing’ their land. The British hear the tale and call the difficult-to-remember ‘Miris’ the easy-to-remember ‘Missing’. The new name sticks. Yes, the Missing take up what is left … the muddy riverbanks only high and dry between the monsoons. Here they build homes on stilts. And monsoon flood waters come and go below their bamboo floors. They squeeze the dry season for produce; rice, pulses, maize, vegetables, medicinal plants, tobacco and bamboo. Men make baskets, boxes, hencoops, canoes and fish traps. Women rear chickens, goats, pigs and shepherd cows in and out of watery meadows. They weave on exquisite handlooms. Shawls, garments and blankets fall from silk and cotton.
Today many Missing live on the Island of Majuli!
ThE ShRiNkInG IsLaNd
Majuli Island lies in the massive Brahmaputra River.
And it shrinks as I write and you read. Every monsoon, the Brahmaputra swells and snatches. Every monsoon, Majuli fractures and forfeits. The is-land surrenders more and more, a little faster, every year, for 60 years.
Square kilometres, 830 of 1250, go under. Villages, 35 of 144, wash away. Buddhist monasteries, 29 of 65, sink. Families, 150,000 people, lose everything. Crops! Animals! Homes! LAND-owners become agricultural workers, fish sellers. A Board and a 55 million USD, bogs down in studies, for three decades. At current rates of erosion, the Island will disappear in 17 years! The Missing people know this too well. Surviving villages swell, ‘lucky’ families extend, and left-over land exceeds capacity. Their bridges, embankments, channels battle on …
It must be very, very hard.
Here, look at the bits and pieces, we see and photo, on Majuli Island.
And then – put the puzzle together again – please.
Together the pieces have possibilities. Together, state and tribe and island, stand a chance. Together, they may Care, Rise and Find. Hope flickers. And a Smile appears …

This map shows India’s ‘forgotten’ North-Eastern State and the ‘shrinking’ Majuli Island of the ‘missing’ Tribe.

This is a typical scene in the Assam region of the North Eastern State. It is starting to feel ‘tropical’.

This guy (and not maps and GPS) helps us find the ferry crossing of the Brahmaputra River (from the north) to Majuli Island.

We are surprised by a second ferry crossing as the Brahmaputra River fragments the island more and more each year ….

This is skewed pork, little fish from the Brahmaputra River wrapped in banana leaves and a ‘passable’ stinky fish paste, chilli and salt.

The Missing converted to Hinduism (an order that focuses on a single god, Vishnu). There are many bachelor monasteries called Satras.

The Missing also still embrace their animist roots. And the two practices co-exist without conflict.
thanks for transporting me
What do they do with the animals when the water comes? Just beautiful the hand crafted homes.
We think they move them into kraals on the bit of dry land that remains
Great to follow your stories of incredible India.
Once again a story about hardships that we can’t even imagine!
Beautiful photos again..amazing adventure..
A very touching real life story. Almost to difficult to digest. As you tell it all I do feel deep sympathy for those living in such circumstances. You pick and highlight the best but your sympathy shines through. On another note the effort to get there bikes and all is fantastic and more than well done! I don’t think I would have joined you for supper maybe lunch!! Mamma Gail
I so enjoy your travels. Thank you.
Eish – makes you realise just how lucky we really are. Its a fascinating place. Thanks once again for sharing
From a disappearing island to wonderful weaving down beside the stilts these people are amazing with their resourcefulness and hard work. They all look so happy despite their tough situation ! Take care !