The Pamir Mountains in south Tajikistan are a series of ranges separated by high-altitude valleys. The Pamir people that live in these valleys were isolated for centuries. Today, they speak languages different from each other and the rest of Tajikistan!
We ride along the Pamir Highway; built by the Soviet Military between 1931 and 1934 to transport troops and provisions to remote outposts of the Soviet empire. We also branch off to follow Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor; a narrow strip of land that juts STRATEGICALLY eastwards, between Tajikistan & Pakistan, to touch China.
Marco Polo travels along both in 1271. We cannot resist this tricky stretch of the Silk Road.
The titles, Highway and Corridor, are misleading. The cliffs are high, the valleys are tight, the passes are scary and the roads up, through and over are often just tracks! Zoom in on the post map (above) to have a closer look … the grey line is the border.
It takes Marco Polo 12 days to cover the 400 kms. It takes us only 3, but very full, days.
Each day is a choc-nut sundae of beautifully isolated vistas. We pig-out on them! And on top of each day sits a cherry of a person … in these remote places. We squirrel them away!
- On day one, we travel from Khorog to Wrang and pass through a few, very small villages. We spend the night at the homestay of Rano and her young family.
- On day two, we travel from Wrang to just before the Khargush Pass. It’s desolate and we find a sheltered spot and wild camp at an altitude of 4300m. We fight fierce winds, icy cold and high altitude headaches all night long! Two child herders, and their goats, pass our tent.
- On day three, we end at a ‘holy spring’ called Ak-Balyk (White Fish) by the side of the road. Here a family makes a living from selling fried fish to occasional Chinese truckers and overland bikers!
How fortunate we are!
Later we become aware of just how fortunate we are! We leave this region on 12 July. Border crossings suddenly close to foreigners on 31 July, due to political clashes in Khorog. Here follows a press quote …
… Officials say 48 people died in clashes last week between the Tajik Military and armed rebels and supporters of the renegade military commander Tolib Ayombekov in and around Khorog. These new tensions were raised by the killing of a local politician, critical of government policy, on 21 July. …

Pamir houses are low with thick, carpeted walls to withstand -40 degrees celsius and 1m high snow. There is no running water or waterborne sewerage.

After supper we chat easily with just a few words. About her husband, her sisters in the next village and the Imam celebration the next day …

Day 2 – Harry starts the next day whizzing Emin and Asia through the village in full view of their mates!

… we may have been spared this! Harry (above) comes a long way down to help me pick this dead weight up!

Our GPS shows an altitude of 4284 meters … we decide to camp just beyond the lake in the background.

A little cold, but cozy until the wind rips the tent pegs out of the ground & us into a frenzy. We lash the tent to the bikes!

These look like Bactrian camels in the background. They have two humps and are only found in remote parts of Central Asia.

At last we have sight of the tiny village of Alicur (far in the distance). The fertile valley in front is popular summer pasture.

Behind us the weather becomes foul over the Pamirs. Later we are told snow falls too (in the middle of their summer).

In this small room a Tajik family serves delicious deep fried fish to 2 Chinese truckers and 3 bikers. Paul, an Aussie, stops when he sees our bikes. He joins us for lunch and plans to enter the Pamir when the weather improves.
Boyce en ek het net nou gekyk en ons weereens sprakeloos
Just beautiful scenery … you make we wonna travel! Thanks for the beautiful pic’s and stories.
tough, tougher, toughest! I don’t know which “road” wins but it scares me to pieces so all I can say is well done you two !!!!!!
Jan – Well the two of you must have travelled some parts of Marco Polo route around 1271. But even in 1893 and later this was still considered to be largely unexplored. This was the time that the Swede Sven Hedin decided that he was called to do something about it. He went across the ‘icey Kirghiz Steppe’ to Tashkent in a horsedrawn carriage.. Then went ACROSS the Pamir mountains, which people told him was impossible. The latter point he liked, because he liked to be superior. He travelled along the Isfairan river across the Alai mountains (Alayskiy Khr, reaching the Russian Fort ‘Pamirsky Post – how did they get there?- or present day Murgab. Then through the Chugatai Pass into Chinese territory, where he was received with suspicion but allowed to continue. Anyhow later, continuing to explore the deserts – including theTakla Makan desert -, looking for lost cities; he was the only survivor of his caravan. Later he became a Nazi sympatiser.
I think parts of his route you may have travelled and also some of the towns you visited may be the same.
Just when you thought it could not be more daring, daunting or beautiful the two of you bring us another wow , awe- inspiring journey!!!!! Truly the university of life and not the text book or magazine sms version of life. I am amazed at how time has stood still- so much info and reference appears to be early Soviet building and construction. It almost appears as if time stood still in these remote areas during the Cold War era. Each posting a journey of awe at the driving skills, or horror at the ablutions or lack of!!!!, beautiful scenery, and array of people. I rush to the computer each day to see if there is a new posting – reminds me of the girl in love that use to wait for the postman each day!!1
Take care. Travel safe.
Love
Wendy and Amelia
Linda i love your writing, I enjoy reading your reports so much. XXX
Wow, I envy you guys. What a life changing experience!!
Very very nice. Cannot wait for the next chapter!!
I envy you :-)
what a beautiful and desolate world!!! wow!
we thought the winds camping in dorset were bad( well bad enough to topple our gazebo) but this looks like the real mccoy!
stay safe and lots of love
How enjoyable and amazing it is to sit in the comfort of our Scottish sunshine (YES) and marvel at your experiences and your pictures. It seems a scary part of the world but has its own beauty and friendly hospitable people. Keep safe.
Fascinating world! Brought to us by H and L..