There is an ancient passage from the Georgian capital Tbilisi, through the great Caucasus mountain range to Vladikavkaz in Russia. Today it is called the Georgian military “highway”. Highway is somewhat of a misnomer for this spectacular dirt track that was engineered in the 19th century with the Russian annexation of the Caucasus and subsequently used to transport Soviet military hardware.
Thankfully at present there is no threat of war or banditry on the highway. The only threat on this deserted passage is from the odd driver in an exhausted Lada, swerving at dangerous speeds to avoid potholes next to sheer drops to the valley below. How these cars survive these roads defies logic in the first place. What they are doing here is also a mystery as the border between Russia and Georgia is closed, effectively making the route a dead end at Kazbegi.
But all this does not matter. The passage is a spectacular one. For us it felt like having the entire Swiss Alps to ourselves. A little piece of biking heaven.
Here are a few pictures which do not do justice to the region but hopefully give an indication of its beauty.
At the bottom of the valley a lovely dam.
Some rain would help.
We start to climb higher.
And reach the first mountain stream.
… and our first village.
The main village and its ambulance. This would make a great camper…
The mountain streams increase.
While some trucks become bogged down.
It feels like having the Swiss alps all to yourself.
With the exception of the odd Lada. How they survive these roads defies logic.
One that did not make it
Heaven
The market at the last village near the Russian border. No internet but Google has a presence, even here.
Fuel is becoming an ever increasing problem on this trip.
And is found in the most unlikely of places. Quality is often dubious at +- 80 Octane, at best.
A moving memorial to fallen comrades.
In the most deserted of areas.
The climb continues …
We hug the edge to take in the scenery.
And its worth it.
Deserted settlements.
While others are trying to be resurrected.
A tiled mosaic, again far removed.
Kazbegi & end of the road ( the border is closed to foreigners), making for a great trip back down.
Ai, lyk baie mooi!
Is this the lost world? And here we complain and complain!
Gail says what a wealth of scenery to be enjoyed in an almost unknown world! I loved it all and did not examine the ravines too closely.
Dear Linda and Harry,
As always a great story by great bikers on the move, first Africa and now Asia, the trans Amreican Highway from Alaska to Cape Horn are waiting for you.
Breaking news overhere the third edition of my book “Dornier Wal a Light coming over thze Sea” on the forgotten Dornier Wal flying boat comes out by the end of next week!
From 25 July 2012 a replica will go on show in the Dornier Museum in Friedrichshafen on Lake Constance.
be sure we think at you on every curve !
Michiel and Petra
Joh!!!Here is beautiful. These old Russian military engineers must have had some good pass builders, like Baines, in their ranks. The vehicles you show wrecked or still running also have their typical Russian ‘Tjap’. When I was in Iceland they had Russian ‘Jeeps’ there, with very noisy gear boxes, as if they had sand in them, as one Icelander said, but they kept going; this was the 1960th. These memorials for the fallen are very touching; going back to WW II or the recent Georgian/Russian conflict? In spite of not liking each other I understand they are very similar in character; toughness being a part of the culture – Nie sissies nie. – JAN
I am awe-struck at the scenery and desolation. And to think i was worried about our dear Africa!!!! a picnic by comparison!!!!! The views are breathtaking and i realise how very little of the world i have seen or even know about. Thank you for unlocking an unknown world and a world i know i will never have the guts to travel. Linda and Harry you are two exceptional people!!!! Keep tavelling and always be careful. Take care and safe travels.
Wendy
Absolutely amazing
Wow, I had no idea that this existed in this area. Are there any ski resorts out that way?
Are those the new tires?
Amazing scenery!
Wens ek was daar!