Harry and I often joke; “I get us in and he gets us out”. And It’s true! It is the way it unfolds, on our two previous trips, and now again.
I get us in …
I burrow in books and gawk at maps, for 10 months. I dig, in ever deepening layers, and bring to light – safe and unsafe states and provinces; – monsoons and snowfalls; – deserts and floodplains, deltas and rainforests; – the oldest religion and the most religions; – 330 million Hindu deities and 4000 Buddha, Jainism and Zoroastrianism; – a zillion independent hill tribes and as many kingdoms; – empires and colonialists, socialist utopias and military regimes; – an Aung San Syi Kui and a Pot Pol; – the most bombed country and a secret war; – the largest democracy and a quasi-civilian parliament; – good roads and bad roads; – visas and permits; – diseases and inoculations ….
And when I can’t bear it one moment longer, I step back and, mercifully, it comes together. I needle, – knit one, slip one, – together a route that fits us perfectly!
A route that bows and bends to rulers and rebels. A route that rises and falls with shapes and seasons. A route that twists and turns to glimpse, with luck, the tips of the Himalaya, a debating monk, worshipping bathers in the Ganges, a tattooed face, a long-necked lady, a hornbill festival, the course of the Irrawaddy River, a buffalo in a rice paddy, opium smoking men and hard working women, a floating village with fish pens AND MOST IMPORTANTLY a bowl of pig’s organ soup and coconut milk desert.
We name our journey. “If you meet the Buddha on the road … ?”
We hope … In northern India, to grip the foothills of the Himalaya, follow the Ganges, loop through its far-flung north-eastern state. Zigzag with a compulsory convoy through the newly opened Myanmar. Follow the northern border of Thailand and take a long-boat down the Mekong River. Slip down the long leg of Laos to the heart of Cambodia and double back to Thailand to cocktail on a beach.
Harry, however, WILL get us out …
He wakes up every morning, with a grin and a swagger. He makes sure we live to see another day!
Instinctively and I think, rather brilliantly, he courts the good and counters the bad.
See him in action; – he forges our way, with a hand on the horn, through potholed roads gridlocked with traffic; – he dons his ‘criminal hat’ and rigs our gear and secures our stuff; – he searches tirelessly at the end of each day for a perfect night’s campsite or rest , never expensive, always clean, always cosy; – he beats down the unscrupulous money changers and charms the bureaucrats; – he works an old directory to find a bike mechanic or hammers a weak internet signal to get those damn tyres through customs; – he stands our ground in a pulsating queue to that delicious kebab stand; he haggles with hand signals; he hawk-eyes our bikes for leaks and flaps and cracks AND MOST IMPORTANTLY he never gives up, never gives up … until our bikes are in shipping crates and we are on aeroplane seats … back home.
And today, as we sit, staring at our beautiful third route, stretched over 20,000 kilometres and 150 days, we can’t imagine a single bit of it.
Except the first five days in New Delhi …. the capital of a country with a sixth of the world’s population ….
! Can you hear the Din !
The two of you are an awesome team!! Congratulations on getting out of your comfort zones and doing NR 3!! Enjoy this previledge – you have earned it!!
HI Linda and Harold, once again you guys are on the road hope you having a wonderful time and experience. I enjoyed reading your first posting, and of course meet the Budha. Happy Birthday to you today Harold, hope you having a wonderful day where ever you are. Look forward to the next posting. Take care.
Linda and Harry, have a wonderful, exciting and safe trip. Have great fun doing what you do so well! I look forward to your updates. Belinda
Safe travels
Enjoy and travel safe.
Say Hello to my Mother land,,,,,
Can’t wait to hear some news from the intrepid travelers. Take great care when you are there.
All the best Linda & Harry
Off on the piki pikis again you lucky devels!!! Hope you have a good trip. Will be following your postings. Have a safe journey. All the best Colin & Debbie Pienaar Durban.
What a privilege to be able to do what you are doing. I will look eagerly forward to your reports and read them with envy. Enjoy and be safe always.
What bikes are you using this time, your trusty BMW GS 650’s?
Hello Mike. Apologies for the delay in replying. Internet at times is non existent. We initially wanted to buy 2nd hand Enfield’s but this became a no go as we would not be able to get them out of India. Ditto for hiring bikes which would also be too expensive for 5 months, even if one could take them across the border(which you cant) .Our Dakar’s are in Germany so we had to look for alternatives for this trip, ex SA. Settled on the G650 X-country as it has a 30kg weight saving, low height ,narrow bars for congested traffic and essentially the Rotax motor which I am familiar with. Fitted extra fuel tanks, centre stands and crash bars otherwise stock standard. I guess any bike will be a compromise, the compromise here being for technical stuff however this is not the intention of the trip. If it was purely for technical riding then one can find tons of this at home. On trips of this nature ones body and bike have to survive .So far the bikes have been the right decision given the traffic here. Took us 8.5 hours to get out of Delhi and cover 245kms to the 1st stop towards the Himalayas. Only worry is that the fans run almost non stop in 40C heat. Should cool down as we gain altitude. More in later posts. H&L
Safe travels, really looking forward to your updates
Fanastic, and travel safe. I did two bike trips in Thailand and just love the East. The food, the people, the scenenary, Looking forward to follow you again in your travels!
Shu! you good people, have a safe journey wherever you are. You should always know that we love you, may the Loving God protect you.
Harry and Linda – its not nice to be envious but envy is but a small part. Your adventurous spirit and your gusto which you take on the unpredictable is to be admired. May the wind be at your back and the sun shine on your faces as you brave this “new world”! Good Luck and savour every moment and if you feel a weight on your shoulder know that it is one of us riding along and keeping you company! Any technical problems know we have the best here to advise you! Love from Team Alan Lewis Motorcycles
Have fun!!! You are going to visit amazing places and people. I look forward to vicariously traveling with you.
Bon Voyage
Buchier
Hi you Two.. How exciting… and now for an awesome journey with you. Pray blessings and safety over you and your journey. Thanks for allowing me to journey with you all the way.. what a vicarious pleasure:))) Safe travels. Gxxxx
Hi you Two.. How exciting… and now for an awesome journey with you. Pray blessings and safety over you and your journey. Thanks for allowing me to journey with you all the way.. what a vicarious pleasure:))) Safe travels. Gxxxx
I am so going to enjoy travelling with you in the spirit! Tell us about the Buddha when you meet him… or any of the many Gods.
You should have booked a day or two in Dubai in the way past!!!
The din is deafening! Indeed – I hear it! It rumbles and quivers with excitement and eager anticipation…. Safe travels!!!
Your sharings are lightening the darknesses in the horizon for the following travellers..wish you all happy,safe and lucky adventures.Best wishes from istanbul..
Linda and Harry ,the trip sounds great. Give Potter a big hug from me! Keep me updated on your trip and I can’t wait to see you both.
GOOD LUCK…I would like to see you back in one piece!
Love from Matthew xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Harold & Linda Travel safe & enjoy
Awesome! Looking forward to read your ride reports and journals which are worthy of a bestseller. Enjoy the journey L & H!
Dear Harry and Linda,
Like Gail already said in her message; we will support you both spiritually and with intense interest in areas not so often visted by people of our ‘Tribe’. Hamba Kahle’ or Tsamaya ka Kgotso/ Reis in Vrede in the Mosotho/Free State way. Pappa Jan
Good luck to the two of you … Ride safely … Looking forward to lots of stunning pictures and intruiging stories …
May you be blessed and kept safe every minute of this trip and truly enjoy it all. It does sound wonderful and amazing and unreal!!
I can’t wait to read the next episode. This is going to better and more exciting than a newly published novel. We have to wait for the next chapter to unfold before we can read on….thank you. For taking us “along” on your trip. Safe travels and enjoy every moment
Looks like you have a amazing journey ahead!!!! Enjoy every second, Will think of you in Delhi, as I was there in June with Aron. Looking forward to reading your updates. XXX
H & L! I enjoyed reading the preamble to your trip – what a fitting start to your newest chapter! And I have no doubt that with 2 such distinct talents both the getting in and getting out will be perfectly executed. Good luck and have a wonderful time :) G & M
Thanks you 2 special people !. We are VERY excited at being able to follow this next journey——sounds wonderful—“And still the snowy Himalayas rise–in ancient majesty before your eyes ” Take care and love as aye J and M xx
Dear Linda and Harry,
From all of us in Kleve and Wuppertal enjoy a safe trip and we are looking forward to exciting trip records !
Come home safely and be blessed !
Michiel, Petra, Alexander, Dorina, Maro and Philipp
Harry and Linda, I wish you the safe and great journey. And I am sure that you are the people who can meet the Buddha on the road.
Envy doesn’t come near to describing my feelings right now. Best of luck! I’ll try to follow.
Wow…your 1st post is mouthwatering and filled with excitement and adventure…thanks also for taking me along.
Our dearest friends, thank you for once again offering to take us along and allowing us to share all the excitement, challenges, astonishing people and vistas, and EVEN the famous soup and desert through your eyes, senses and blogging. We pray for your safety every day and every kilometre. Reading your first posting leaves us with a pregnancy of expectation to be carried away! Safe journey. Be BLESSED. By now you will know what that means.